Vintage art deco German (ges.gesch) mother-of-pearl pendant/necklace by Ah Schreiber & Hiller (S&H) This stunning art deco pendant has a wonderful mother-of-pearl inlay. I believe it could be a very low grade of gold, although it is not hallmarked, so I have to sell it as yellow metal. Some age-related wear requires a chain.
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2 cm wide and 2 1/2 cm tall
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Mother-of-pearl, also known as nacre, is the iridescent inner layer of certain mollusc shells, like those of oysters and mussels. It's a beautiful, shimmering material known for its unique iridescence and is often used in jewellery and decorative items. While it's made of the same substance as pearls (nacre), it is distinct from actual pearls.
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Art Deco is a design style that originated in the 1920s and 30s, characterised by its geometric shapes, rich colours, and luxurious materials. It emerged as a reaction to the ornate Art Nouveau style, embracing the modern age with bold, streamlined designs. Art Deco influenced various forms of art, including architecture, furniture, fashion, and decorative arts, with its influence spreading globally.
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The "AH" on German jewellery likely refers to the jewellery manufacturer Schreiber & Hiller (S&H), founded in Pforzheim in 1920. They were known for producing jewellery and chains. The company's first trademark was registered in 1950 and granted in 1952, specifically for bracelets. While "AH" could also potentially refer to Anton Hemmerle, who took over a jewellery business in the 1800s and later became an official purveyor to the Bavarian court, the more likely attribution for an "AH" mark on jewellery is Schreiber & Hiller.
Here's a more detailed look:
Schreiber & Hiller (S&H):
This company, founded by Rudolf Friedrich Schreiber and August Hiller, was a significant jewellery manufacturer in Pforzheim, a major centre for jewellery production.
Trademark:
Their trademark, which included the initials "AH" within a shield, was registered in Germany and covered jewellery, particularly bracelets.
Anton Hemmerle:
While Hemmerle also used the initials "AH" and had a long history, they were primarily known for medals and later expanded into a wider jewellery collection, especially under the third generation of the family.
Pforzheim:
This city was a hub for jewellery and watchmaking, with many workshops and companies, including Schreiber & Hiller.
Importance of Marks:
Jewellery makers' marks are crucial for identifying the origin and manufacturer of pieces, especially in the absence of other identifying marks or hallmarks.
Historical Context:
Understanding the historical context of German jewellery production, including the significance of Pforzheim and the evolution of different companies, is important for identifying and appreciating antique jewellery.